Fishing Frenzy

Situated off the southern Pacific coast of Costa Rica along the shores of the Osa Peninsula, almost on the Panama border, you will find the Parque Nacional Corcovado (Corcovado National Park). This is a unique protected habitat and is the largest surviving forest on the Pacific Coast from Mexico to South America. There are eight different habitats to be found in the 42,000 hectares (100,000 acres) which form a tiny national park that remains for the most part unspoiled. Though teeny, it is one-of-a-kind. Literally.

When Christopher Columbus explored the Americas in 1502 he traveled the Caribbean from Mexico south to a land he called 'Costa Rica', the 'rich coast'. The name stuck. Fabulous tropical forests covered the land from the Atlantic to the Pacific and there were so many sea turtles that sometimes mariners, lost in the fog, found land by listening to the sounds of tens of thousands of animals paddling towards nesting beaches. Unfortunately, the passage of 500 years has not been kind to either the forests or animals and today most of the primary forests from Mexico to South America have been cut down or burned. Fortunately, Costa Rica had the good sense to preserve Corcovado.

Columbus never saw Corcovado. The first Western explorer to see it was Sir Frances Drake (remember him? The sea captain who destroyed the Spanish Armada in 1588 and saved England from Spain) who landed just north of the Osa Peninsula in a beautiful place now named after him: Drake Bay. The bay serves as the gateway to Corcovado.

Do not be misled by the tiny size of this gem. Though it is less than 160 square miles in size (your daily commute is probably larger) this national park protects has been described by National Geographic as 'the most biologically intense place' on the planet. There are 400 species of birds in an area only about 20 miles long and 8 miles wide. How intense is this? Consider. The continental United States---48 States---has 900 or so different species. The largest remaining population of magnificent Scarlet Macaws in Central America lives there, some 1000. Visitors are regularly able to watch these birds in flight or feeding near the shoreline. The mangrove swamps, montane forest and jolillo palms of Corcovado provide a home for 139 different species of mammal and 116 species of amphibian and reptile. The mammals (including six species of wild cats) represent a 10th of the species of mammals still alive in the Americas and are supported on only 0.000101777% of the landmass.

Rare frogs such as the red-eyed tree frog, poison-arrow frog and the enigmatic glass frog are all found here. And this park is one of only a handful of sites in Costa Rica where you will find squirrel monkeys. At night, fishing bats literally scoop fish from the rivers.

At Corcovado, you will find miles of apparently deserted beaches. I say apparently because these beaches provide nesting grounds for huge leatherback (weighing more than half a ton), Pacific Ridley, green and hawksbill sea turtles. Tapirs are plentiful and provide food for ferocious jaguars and crocodiles. The spoor of these large cats is regularly found in the muddy trails around the Corcovado Lagoon and they are also sighted frequently. Bring your camera and stay alert!

This is rainforest so expect precipitation, lots of it---200 inches or more a year. The trees, incredible in their diversity, are as tall as any found in the Amazon, Malaysia, and Indonesia, and it is easy to see why the park is often referred to as the Amazon of Costa Rica. The best time to visit is in the dry months from January to April as the park is inundated by torrential rains from April to December.